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Top Chef
Oh, Brothers!
Trae Patton/© NBC Universal, Inc.

Oh, Brothers!
by Elise Juska  October 07, 2009 03:16 PM EST

As soon as this week's episode of Top Chef opened on footage of Ash explaining he’s a kid from the suburbs who never went to culinary school, I was sure he was doomed—but I was wrong. That’s just the first of tonight’s shakeups and surprises.

Our theme tonight is the celebration of the “at-home chef.” Riffing on the cookstr web site, each cheftestant has to make a quickfire dish integrating three words that represent a specific mood, taste/texture, and cuisine—i.e., “tired crunchy Middle Eastern” or “stressed cheesy American.” It’s a cool idea and actually seems to require more creative thinking than the elimination challenge that’s coming.

So they each step up and crank the Vegas-style slot machine for their three words. Eli and Robin both pull “umami” and “stressed” (totally fitting for Eli, who trudges off anxiously rubbing his brow). Both also end up preparing mushrooms and land in the bottom three, Eli for his Latin American ceviche with “avocado marble” (come again?) and Robin for her Middle Eastern hash with curry (which Padma points out is not really Middle Eastern, prompting Robin to disagree and then quickly, wisely reconsider). Also in the bottom, for the first time: Jen. Celebrity chef Tyler Florence thinks the salmon roe in her “adventurous nutty American” scallops with pistachio is too tame. He deems Kevin the winner for his “stressed hot-and-spicy Asian” grilled pork with Vietnamese herb salad. Not sure what makes the dish stressed, but it looks tasty.

Kevin has a choice: $15K or immunity. He keeps the money, prompting an energetic “Atta boy!” from Padma. But at this point, with several chefs still in the running, it would betray a serious lack of confidence for any of them to choose immunity, right?

Our theme continues back at the homefront, where the gang has three hours to whip up a family-style dinner. They’re cooking in pairs, using bags of ingredients and product-placed cookware supplied by one of the lineup of chefs stoically awaiting them poolside. The challenge here is mostly about timing and collaboration, but like other challenges this season that hinged on teamwork, the group is too professional (mostly) for it to cause any serious waves. The most potentially combustible pairing, Mike Isabella and Robin, provokes the usual torrent complaints from Mike (“it’s my way or the highway,” blah blah blah) but doesn’t amount to much real conflict in the kitchen.

The true drama is around the lack of space, lack of burners, and busted circuit breaker that causes Michael Voltaggio’s halibut to go cold. He tries to salvage it on the grill but the self-described “control freak” is seriously worrying—rightly so, it turns out, as he ends up in the bottom for the first time. (In his defense, though, the man is there because of a power outage. I know there are “no excuses” in the kitchen, but I’m just saying.)

Jen bounces back by winning the challenge for the cardamom tomato broth on her and Kevin’s barbecue beef. Then Ash, in the losing lineup, starts heaping embarrassing amounts of praise on partner Michael, comparing cooking with him to “washing paintbrushes for Picasso.” Oh, dear. He really said that. Michael looks as uncomfortable listening to this as we are. In the stew room, Bryan is endearingly protective of his little bro as the others all sit wondering about Michael’s fate—but it’s Ashley who is sent home (for the gnocchi Eli oversalted and the prawns Eli wasn’t confident enough to cook himself) and Michael can exhale again.

What did you think—was this homey episode a home run?
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